July 17 trip down Cross Canyon

As usual I was a bit rushed leaving for another Wenaha trip with Grant. We had originally planned on leaving around noon on Friday so I made morning plans. Grant, however, finished work early and was itching to hit the road ASAP. Luckily I had packed the night before so I grabbed my gear (hoping that I remembered everything) and headed out the door.

For this weekend adventure we planned on a two-night trip into the Wenaha using the Cross Canyon trail. Would be a bit of a rough weekend as the area was under an extreme weather watch for high temperatures: in Walla Walla the temp was expected to peak at 103 each day of the weekend. Mother Nature didn’t disappoint as it was damn hot on the hike down Cross Canyon. Bit a disappointing start to the trip as there were three vehicles already parked at the trailhead. We briefly contemplated going to the Hoodoo trailhead, but since we had just hiked it two weeks ago we stuck to Cross Canyon.

Since there were campers at our normal spot we made camp where the trail intersects the river. Pretty open spot: right on the trail and below the Cross Canyon trail. However based on the fire ring and make-shift wooden bench the spot appeared to popular with campers. After setting up camp we put on fishing gear and headed downstream. A bit downstream from the rock/fence area (where the Forest Service used fencing and rocks to create the trail) Grant spotted a couple Bull Trout in a deep section of water next to the bank. Was pretty fun watching the bulls move from under the bank to chase his fly.

Downstream of Butte Creek is the first deep hole where the river runs into a basalt cliff face. Always been a disappointing spot, we have fished the spot several times and never had much luck. Friday afternoon was no different as we didn’t see any fish. A bit below the pool is a small riffle where I had landed a nice rainbow the previous year. I drifted the double bunny and copper john combo through the riffle a couple times when WHAM fish on. And not just any fish but a very large fish! After the fish made a couple runs up and down the river my 3x tippet broke and the monster was free (of course Grant chastised me for using 3x instead of a heavier 2x tippet).

Even though it was incredibly hot during the day the temperature cooled off in the evenings. In fact it got down right chilly! The drop in temperature was partially due to the fact we were camped on an exposed area a few yards from the river. We both got chilled in our hammocks and light weight sleeping bags. Good lesson to learn -- even on the hottest days the Wenaha nights can get chilly.

Saturday we awoke to realize that a horrible, wild animal had ravaged our camp while we slept! A mouse or squirrel had chewed holes through both of packs and gotten into various food items. On of my compression straps was completely chewed off and Grant had several big holes in his pack. After lamenting the condition of our gear we prepared a breakfast of oatmeal and black coffee. Instead of same old oatmeal packets I prepared an oatmeal recipe I found at trailcooking.com. It was a great recipe, easy to make and the freezer bag made for quick cleanup.

Since we had fished about a mile downstream the previous night we hit the main Wenaha trail and hiked to our stopping point. On the hike we ran into a decent sized rattler about 100 yards upstream from Butte Creek. He was curled up under a rock next to the trail. Not a good place for a rattler to be making home – right on the trail under a rock! Around 9am we entered the river to start the days fishing. Even at 9am it was getting hot! We kept our normal routine of staying in the water and fished downstream. At one of the deeper pools we caught a decent sized rainbow, whitefish and bull trout. I couldn’t resist naming the pool the “trifecta pool”. However I should name the pool “broken rod pool” because that is exactly what happened: in dislodging my flies from an underwater snag I broke my fly rod! Some items are special and items have special memories: my fly rod is both. In 1996 while living in Boise my wife took the time to hand-craft this rod for me. I have been lucky enough to fish many wonderful waters in WA, OR, ID and MT over the past 10-15 years: that rod has been everyplace with me! To make matters worse my 18^th anniversary was in two days! Needless to say I was incredibly bummed. I was also bummed that in my rush to get out of the house I forgot a backup rod. Looks like a spare rod is a must have when venturing in the Wenaha wilderness. Earlier in the season Grant also broke a rod.

Grant was gracious enough to share his rod with me as we fished downstream. Not an ideal situation, but while one of us fished the other would look for bull trout or have a snack. I had the rod when we came to a nice looking, long run. That long run produced my best fishing of the weekend. For a while it seemed that every cast was producing a fish or a decent hook up. Like the “trifecta pool” I caught bulls, rainbows and a large 20” whitefish. What is it about Whitefish? Once hooked these fish don’t fight or put up much of a struggle. Too bad the 20” Whitefish was very deep and should/could of put a decent fight.

Once we reached the water we had fished two weeks prior I decided I was bushed and got on the trail to head back to camp. As usual Grant fished a bit longer so I hiked solo back to camp. I was having a nice peaceful walk down the trail when a large brown creature jumped onto the trail ahead of me and run out of site. My initial thought was oh crap a bear (which there are many of in the Wenaha area). However after my initial shock I realized the critter had moose horns. In my explorations of the Wenaha I’ve never seen a moose, in fact I didn’t know there were moose in the area. Rest of the hike was pretty uneventful until returning to the rattlesnake rock. Sure enough the rattler was still there, coiled up under the rock, and rattling when I got near. Tough decision, stay on the trail and pass within 2’ of a coiled up rattler or jump down the embankment into the water. Well not such a tough decision I jumped into the water and walked the river back to camp.

While waiting for Grant I had another dehydrated dinner and read my book while waiting for Grant to return back to camp. About an hour later I see Grant across the river with a big stick and rock in hand. At camp he said not only did he again see the rattler but 3 more within 50’. One of them didn’t rattle until he placed his foot next to the snake! For the record don’t worry about the snake curled up the rock: Grant made sure that snake won’t be bothering any further hikers!

After dinner we sat in the hammocks talking about the day of fishing. Grant got a chuckle out of my close semi-close encounter with a moose. He also had never seen a moose in the area. A few minutes later Grant’s eyes get big and he shouts “watch out, moose!” I jump out of my hammock and sure enough that moose is barreling down the trail towards out camp! Grant’s yell startles the moose which slams to a stop, turns around and runs back down the trail. Incredibly funny moment -- a moose almost runs through our camp a few minutes after I was telling my story about seeing one on the trail.

Not much to report on Sunday. I was tired and wasn’t in the mood to fish which was probably a good thing since I didn’t have a rod. Instead I had a delightful day hanging in my hammock and read “What Angels Fear” by CS Harris (historical fiction mystery). Grant returned about 4pm and we waited until about 7pm to make the hike out. Was bloody hot and Cross Canyon is the steepest trail down to the Wenaha. The days rest did me good as I make the hike without stopping (3.2 miles and almost 2k elevation change)! Damn hard but I made it.